A woven upper

ABSTRACT

The present invention provides a woven upper formed of warp yarns and weft yarns comprising a first area that is elastic in at least one of the warp or weft direction. The warp yarns and/or the weft yarns comprise at least 5% elastic yarns. The woven upper being characterised in that the elastic yarns are woven in tension. The upper may also comprise a second area having a different elasticity to the first area, wherein the the warp yarns and/or weft yarns of the second area comprise at least 5% fewer elastic yarns than the equivalent yarns of the first area. Advantageously the woven upper is woven using a jacquard machine. The present invention also provides a method of weaving the woven upper.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to footwear, in particular woven uppersfor forming footwear.

BACKGROUND TO THE INVENTION

A variety of materials are used to form shoe uppers including, but notlimited to, leather, suede, canvas, knitted materials, and fabrics. Aswell as providing different appearance, different materials can providedifferent physical characteristics such as elasticity, stiffness, wearresistance, and water-proofing. The material from which the upper of aspecific shoe is formed are generally chosen to provide the appropriateappearance and material characteristics for that shoe.

Some shoes, particularly shoes intended for specific sports or athleticactivities, require different regions of the upper to have differentphysical characteristics. In particular, it is often desirable to haveregions of differing stiffness and/or elasticity. Historically, this hasbeen achieved by forming an upper from regions of different materialand/or providing stiffeners within the upper. More recently there havebeen attempts to form uppers having regions of different physicalcharacteristics from a single material by processing the material of theupper in different manners in different regions.

EP2594146 discloses a sports shoe having an upper formed of a singlematerial in which a portion of the upper comprises a first layer and asecond functional layer that is printed onto the first layer, the secondfunctional layer covering only portions of the upper. The tensilestrength of the portion printed with the section of the secondfunctional layer is at least doubled compared to the unprinted regionsof the upper, and the second layer modifies the elasticity in ananisotropic manner. That is, EP2594146 discloses an upper in which thephysical characteristics of the upper are varied by printing a secondmaterial onto the material of the upper. The material form which theupper of EP2594146 may be formed include knitted materials.

Whilst it is advantageous to provide uppers manufactured from a singlematerial in the manner of EP2594146, the method of EP2494146 isdisadvantageous in that it requires further processing and the printingof a second functional layer in order to form regions of differentphysical characteristics. Therefore, there remains a need for uppershaving elastic properties that are formed in a single process.Advantageously, any such upper may have two or more regions of differentphysical characteristics.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides a woven upper formed of warp yarns andweft yarns and comprising:

a first area; wherein,

the first area comprises elastic yarns and non-elastic yarns;

the warp and/or the weft yarns of the first area comprise at least 5%elastic yarns; characterised in that:

the elastic yarns are woven in tension.

The upper of the present invention is advantageous in that it provides asimple construction for an upper that allows control of the elasticityof the upper in the warp and/or weft directions. In particular, theelasticity of the first area of the upper can be controlled bycontrolling the proportion of elastic and non-elastic yarns in the warpand weft directions. Increasing the proportion of elastic yarns in thewarp and/or weft direction will increase the elasticity of the upper inthat direction. The yarns of the upper that are not elastic yarns willbe substantially inelastic yarns. In the context of the presentinvention an elastic yarn is one that is capable of elasticallydeforming to at least 150% of a rest length. An example of a suitableelastic yarn for use in the present invention is elastane continuousmono-filament yarn.

The upper of the present invention is formed of a woven materialcomprising warp yarns and weft yarns. The weaving of the material may beachieved in any appropriate manner. In embodiments of the invention theweaving may be carried out using a jacquard machine or any other similarmachine. Weaving using a jacquard machine is advantageous in that it canallow the first area (and any other areas present in the upper) to beformed without difficulty by following an appropriate weaving pattern.

In order to provide suitable elasticity and integrity to the woven upperthe elastic yarns of the upper are woven in tension. That is, duringweaving the elastic yarns are elastically extended such that an elastictension is present in the elastic yarns. The elastic yarns are woveninto the upper under elastic tension. For example, in embodiments of theinvention, during weaving the elastic yarns may be extended from a restlength by at least 5%. In embodiments of the invention during weavingthe elastic yarns may be extended from a rest length by at least 20%, atleast 50%, or at least 100%. The rest length of an elastic yarn is thelength of the yarn at which there is no tension in the yarn.

In embodiments of the invention either the warp yarns or the weft yarnsof the first area may comprise 5% more elastic yarns than the other ofthe warp yarns and the weft yarns of the first area. This isadvantageous as it allows the first area of the upper to haveanisotropic elasticity, i.e. be more elastic in one of the warp or weftdirections.

In embodiments of the invention the warp yarns of the first areacomprise at least 20% or at least 50% elastic yarns. Increasing theproportion of elastic yarns in the warp yarns increases the elasticityof the upper in the warp direction.

In embodiments of the invention the weft yarns of the first areacomprise at least 20% or at least 50% elastic yarns. Increasing theproportion of elastic yarns in the weft yarns increases the elasticityof the upper in the weft direction.

In embodiments of the invention the upper may further comprise a secondarea; wherein the first area has a greater elasticity in the warp and/orthe weft direction than the second area; and wherein

the warp yarns and/or the weft yarns of the first area comprise at least5% elastic yarns; and

the warp yarns or the weft yarns of the second area comprise at least 5%fewer elastic yarns than the equivalent yarns of the first area;characterised in that:

the elastic yarns are in tension.

In these embodiments of the invention the first area and the second areaof the upper have differing elasticity. This is achieved by providing adifferent yarn composition in each area. In particular, the warp yarnsand/or the weft yarns of the first area comprise at least 5% elasticyarns and the equivalent yarns of the second area comprise at least 5%fewer elastic yarns.

For example, in embodiments of the invention the warp yarns of the firstarea will comprise at least 5% elastic yarns and the warp yarns of asecond area will have at least 5% fewer elastic yarns such that the warpdirection of the first area is more elastic than the warp direction ofthe second area. As a further example, in embodiments of the inventionthe weft yarns of the first area will comprise at least 5% elastic yarnsand the weft yarns of a second area will have at least 5% fewer elasticyarns such that the weft direction of the first area is more elasticthan the weft direction of the second area. As a further example, inembodiments of the invention the warp yarns and the weft yarns of thefirst area will comprise at least 5% elastic yarns, the warp directionof a second area will have at least 5% fewer elastic yarns than the warpdirection of the first area, and the weft direction of the second areawill have at least 5% fewer elastic yarns than the weft direction of thesecond area, such that the warp and the weft directions of the firstarea are more elastic than the warp and the weft directions of thesecond area. That is, the first area may have a greater elasticity thana second area in only the warp direction, only the weft direction, or inboth the warp and the weft directions. This greater elasticity isachieved by the first area comprising at least 5% elastic yarns in therelevant direction and having at least 5% more elastic yarns than thesame direction in a second area.

In embodiments of the invention, the warp yarns and/or weft yarns of asecond area comprise, at least 10%, at least 15%, or at least 20% fewerelastic yarns the equivalent yarns of the first area. Increasing thedifference in the number of elastic yarns in the warp and/or weft yarnsbetween the first and second areas will increase the difference inelasticity between the areas.

In order to achieve good elasticity of the first area in a relevantdirection it may be advantageous that the warp yarns of the first areaand/or the weft yarns of the first area comprise at least 50% elasticyarns. This will provide excellent elasticity in the warp and/or theweft direction of the first area.

In embodiments of the invention having a first area and a second areathe first area may be significantly more elastic than the second area inthe warp and/or the weft direction. For example, in embodiments of theinvention the warp direction of the first area may have at least 20%,30%, 40%, or 50% more elastic yarns than the warp direction of thesecond area and/or the weft direction of the first area may have atleast 20%, 30%, 40%, or 50% more elastic yarns than the weft directionof the second area. In embodiments of the invention the first area maybe more elastic than the second area in both the warp direction and theweft direction. In embodiments of the invention the first area may bemore elastic than the second in area in the warp or weft direction andthe second area may be more elastic than the first area in the other ofthe warp and weft directions. In embodiments of the invention the firstarea may have the same elasticity as the second area in one of the warpand the weft directions.

Generally, it is to be understood that the elasticity of the warp andweft directions of an upper can be controlled by varying the proportionof elastic yarns in the warp and weft yarns. A greater proportion ofelastic yarns in either the warp or the weft direction will provide agreater elasticity in that direction. Further control of the elasticitymay be achieved by using different weave patterns in the first andsecond areas. The control of elasticity in this manner will be readilyapparent to the person skilled in the art. Regardless of control ofelasticity, in embodiments of the invention having a first area and asecond area, it may be preferable that different weave patterns areutilised in the first and second areas such that the first and thesecond areas can be easily visually differentiated.

In many embodiments of the invention the warp yarns and the weft yarnswill comprise a mixture of elastic yarns and non-elastic yarns. Inembodiments of the invention the warp or the weft direction of the firstarea may consist entirely of elastic yarns. In embodiments of theinvention having a second area one of the warp or weft direction of thesecond area may consist entirely of elastic yarns. In embodiments of theinvention having a second area the warp and/or the weft direction of thesecond area may consist entirely of inelastic yarns. In embodiments ofthe invention one of the warp or weft directions of the first area mayconsist entirely of inelastic yarns. In embodiments of the inventionhaving a first area and a second area both the warp and the weftdirection of the first area and the second area may comprise a mix ofelastic and inelastic yarns.

In embodiments of the invention the first area and/or any second area,the inelastic yarns of the first area and any second area may be formedof polyester, polyamide or polypropylene. In such embodiments theinelastic yarns may have between 8 and 12 interlacing points every 10cm.

In order to provide suitably robust uppers that retain appropriateflexibility, in embodiments of the invention the first area and/or anysecond area may comprise at least 30 warp and weft yarns per cm,preferably at least 60 warp yarns/cm, and preferably at least 55 weftyarns/cm. Similarly, in embodiments of the invention the first areaand/or any second area may comprise a maximum of 72 warp yarns per cmand a maximum of 70 weft yarns/cm.

Inelastic yarns of the present invention may comprise any suitableyarns. For example, inelastic yarns presently used for weaving wovenuppers according to the prior art are suitable for use in the presentinvention. An example of a suitable yarn is polyester continuous flatfilament yarn. Other suitable yarns include polyamide (basic and HT),polyester (basic and HT), polypropylene, PET and TPU yarns, aramideyarns (meta and para-aramide), HDPE yarns (polyethylene High Density),PTFE yarns, PU and PVC yarns, acrylic and carbon yarns, artificial yarnssuch as viscose, acetate, modal, Tencel, and cellulosic yarns, andnatural yarns, such as wool, silk, cotton, linen, yuta, ramie and hemp.

For synthetic yarns the count of the relevant area of the woven uppermay preferably be between 22 dTex and 1100 dTex. For artificial yarnsthe count of the relevant area of the woven upper may advantageously bebetween 22 dTex and 550 dTex. For natural yarns the count of therelevant area of the woven upper may advantageously be between 22 dTexand 60 dTex. For elastic yarns formed of elastane, rubber, or silicone,the count of the relevant area of the woven upper may be between 22 dTexand 33 dTex.

A woven upper according to the present invention may comprise more thanone first area and/or more than one second area. In addition, a wovenupper according to the present invention may comprise additional areas,for example third, fourth, or fifth areas, each with differing elasticproperties achieved by controlling the proportion of elastic yarns inthe warp and/or weft directions. That is, a woven upper according to thepresent invention may have any reasonable number of different areas,each with differing elastic properties.

Eyelets are commonly provided on an upper to allow mounting of laces onthe upper. In conventional uppers, eyelets are either holes formedthrough the uppers, that may be reinforced, or loops sewn onto theupper. In embodiments of the invention eyelets may be provided in eitherconventional manner. In alternative embodiments of the present inventionthe woven upper may further comprise a plurality of eyelets formed on asurface of the woven upper, the eyelets being formed of either the warpyarns or the weft yarns of the upper. That is, the woven upper of thepresent invention may be woven in such a manner that the either the warpyarns or the weft yarns form eyelets at appropriate positions on theupper. In particular, at each eyelet a plurality of the warp yarns orthe weft yarns will form a loop over a surface of the upper throughwhich a shoe lace may be passed. This is advantageous as it removes theneed to provide eyelets in post-processing of the upper. Alternatively,a woven upper according to the present invention may comprise aplurality of eyelets formed on a surface of the woven upper, the eyeletsbeing formed of ribbon woven into the warp or weft of the upper. This isadvantageous as it provides a robust construction for the eyeletswithout the need to provide eyelets in post-processing of the upper.

The present invention also provides a method of weaving an upperaccording to the present invention comprising the steps:

providing a first warp yarn and a first weft yarn;

weaving a woven upper having a first area, woven from the first warpyarn and the first weft yarn; wherein

the first warp yarn and/or the first weft yarn comprise at least 5%elastic yarns;

the first warp yarn and the first weft yarn comprise elastic yarns andnon-elastic yarns; characterised in that:

the elastic yarns are woven in tension.

In embodiments, the method of the present invention further comprisesthe steps of:

providing a second warp yarn and a second weft yarn; and

weaving the woven upper having a first area, woven from the first warpyarn and the first weft yarn, and a second area, woven from the secondwarp yarn and the second weft yarn; wherein:

the first warp yarn and/or the first weft yarn comprise at least 5%elastic yarns and the second warp yarn and/or the second weft yarncomprises at least 5% fewer elastic yarns than the equivalent firstyarn; characterised in that:

the elastic yarns are woven in tension.

The woven upper can be woven using any suitable machine. Advantageously,the upper is woven using a jacquard machine. This is advantageous asjacquard machines allow the weaving of different patterns in a singlepiece of material without difficulty. For example, a jacquard machinemay allow the first area and any second area to be woven in differentpatterns. The patterns of the first area and any second area may be anysuitable pattern including, but not limited to simple weaving patternssuch as canvas, twill, satin, and piquet, as well as more intricatepatterns such as gobelin, and damasco.

Weaving in different patterns can further control the elasticity ofdifferent areas of the woven upper. For example, it can be used tofurther control the elasticity of the first area and any second area. Inaddition, the first area and any second area may be woven in differentpatterns such that they can be easily visually differentiated.

After weaving, a woven upper according to the present invention may befinished in any appropriate manner. For example, the woven upper mayundergo heat settling to fix the size of the upper.

Further features and aspects of the invention will be apparent from theembodiments of the invention shown in the Figures and described below.

DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 is a first embodiment of a woven upper according to the presentinvention;

FIG. 2 is a second embodiment of a woven upper according to the presentinvention;

FIG. 3 is a schematic of a third embodiment of a woven upper accordingto the present invention;

FIG. 4 is a first image of a fourth embodiment of a woven upperaccording to the present invention; and

FIG. 5 is a second image of a fourth embodiment of a woven upperaccording to the present invention.

A simple embodiment of a woven upper 1 according to the presentinvention is shown in FIG. 1 . The woven upper 1 consists of a piece ofwoven material that has been woven on a jacquard machine. The wovenupper consists of a third area 2, a second area 3, and two first areas4. The third area 2, second area 3, and first areas 4 are woven withdifferent weaving patterns and have different elastic properties. In thethird area 2, both warp yarns and weft yarns consist of elastic yarnsproviding elasticity in both the warp and the weft direction. In thesecond area 3, the warp yarns and the weft yarns consist of inelasticyarns such that the second area is not elastic in either the warpdirection or the weft direction. In the first area 4, the warp yarns areinelastic and the weft yarns are elastic such that the third area iselastic in only the weft direction. In this manner a single woven upperhas varying elastic properties.

The elastic yarns of the woven upper 1 are formed of elastane continuousmono-filament yarn with count 44 dTex. The elastic yarns have between 11and 14 interlacing points per 10 cm. The inelastic yarns of the wovenupper are formed of polyester continuous flat filaments with count 167dTex/48 filaments flat. The inelastic yarns have between 9 and 11interlacing points per 10 cm. During interlacing the elastic yarns arestretched to 200% of their rest length. That is, during weaving theelastic yarns are extended to twice their rest length and are undertension.

After weaving the tension on the elastic yarns is released. Finally, thewoven upper 1 is heat set using an appropriate method.

A second simple embodiment of a woven upper 1 according to the presentinvention is shown in FIG. 2 . The woven upper 1 of FIG. 2 comprises athird area 5, two second areas 6, and four first areas 7. As for theembodiment of FIG. 1 , the third area 5, second areas 6, and first areas7 are woven with different patterns to visually differentiate the areas.The third area 5, second areas 6, and first areas 7 have differingelastic properties. This is achieved by utilising the different weavingpatterns and by providing different composition of elastic yarns in thewarp and weft directions between the different the third, second, andfirst areas 5, 6, 7. Each of the waft and weft directions of the first,second, and third areas comprise inelastic yarns and varying amounts ofelastic yarns. An increased portion of elastic yarns in the warp andweft directions provides greater elasticity in the relevant direction.

As for the first embodiment, the elastic yarns of the woven upper 1 ofthe second embodiment are formed of elastane continuous mono-filamentyarn with count 44 dTex. The elastic yarns have between 11 and 14interlacing points per 10 cm. The inelastic yarns of the woven upper areformed of polyester continuous flat filaments with count 167 dTex/48filaments flat. The inelastic yarns have between 9 and 11 interlacingpoints per 10 cm. During interlacing the elastic yarns are stretched to200% of their rest length. That is, during weaving the elastic yarns areextended to twice their rest length and are under tension. After weavingthe tension on the elastic yarns is released. Finally, the woven upper 1is heat set using an appropriate method.

A third embodiment of a woven upper 1 according to the present inventionis shown in FIG. 3 . The woven upper 1 is formed in the same manner andfrom the same materials as the first and second embodiments of theinvention. The third embodiment comprises first areas 8, second areas 9,third areas 10, and fourth areas 11, each having different elasticproperties. The differing elastic properties being provided by differingproportions of elastic yarns being present in the warp and weftdirections between the first, second, third, and fourth areas 8, 9, 10,11. The third embodiment is provided to illustrate the complexity ofpatterns of woven uppers 1 that can be obtained in embodiments of thepresent invention. This complexity is achievable due to the unitarywoven nature of the uppers 1. Different uppers 1 can be provided for anyparticular use depending on the requirements of a shoe that the upperwill form part of.

A fourth embodiment of a woven upper 1 according to the presentinvention is shown in FIGS. 4 and 5 . As for the first to thirdembodiments shown in FIGS. 1 to 3 , the woven upper comprises firstareas 12, a second areas 13, and third areas 14. The first, second, andthird areas 12, 13, 14 have differing elastic properties provided bydiffering proportions of elastic yarns being present in the warp andweft directions. In addition, the woven upper comprises a plurality ofeyelets 15 formed on the upper surface. The eyelets 15 are formed of theweft yarns of the upper and are formed during weaving of the woven upper1. In particular, the weaving of the upper 1 using a jacquard machineallows the formation of the eyelets 15 during weaving of the upper 1,rather than adding the eyelets in a separate process step after weavingof the upper 1. A shoe lace 16 is positioned through the eyelets 15 toshow the function of the eyelets.

1-25. (canceled)
 26. A woven upper formed of warp and weft yarns,comprising: a first area, wherein the first area comprises elastic yarnsand non-elastic yarns; wherein the warp yarns and/or the weft yarns ofthe first area comprise at least 5% elastic yarns, wherein the elasticyarns are woven in tension.
 27. A woven upper according to claim 26,wherein the warp yarns of the first area comprise at least 5% moreelastic yarns than the weft yarns.
 28. A woven upper according to claim26, wherein the warp yarns of the first area comprise at least 20%elastic yarns.
 29. A woven upper according to claim 28, wherein the warpyarns of the first area comprise at least 50% elastic yarns.
 30. A wovenupper according to claim 26, wherein the weft yarns comprise at least 5%more elastic yarns than the warp yarns.
 31. A woven upper according toclaim 30, wherein the weft yarns of the first area comprise at least 20%elastic yarns.
 32. A woven upper according to claim 31, wherein the weftyarns of the first area comprise at least 50% elastic yarns.
 33. A wovenupper according to claim 26, further comprising: a second area; whereinthe first area has a greater elasticity in the warp and/or the weftdirection than the second area, wherein the warp yarns and/or weft yarnsof the second area comprise at least 5% fewer elastic yarns than theequivalent yarns of the first area, wherein the elastic yarns are wovenin tension.
 34. A woven upper according to claim 33, wherein the warpyarns and/or the weft yarns of the first area and/or the second areacomprise a mixture of elastic yarns and non- elastic yarns.
 35. A wovenupper according to claim 33, wherein the warp yarns and/or the weftyarns of the second area consist exclusively of non-elastic yarns.
 36. Awoven upper according to claim 33, further comprising a third areahaving a different elasticity from the first area and the second area inthe warp and/or weft directions.
 37. A woven upper according to claim33, wherein during weaving of the upper the elastic yarns were extendedfrom a rest length by at least 20%.
 38. A woven upper according to claim37, wherein during weaving of the upper the elastic yarns were extendedfrom a rest length by at least 100%.
 39. A woven upper according toclaim 26, wherein the non-elastic yarns of the upper comprise one ormore of polyester, polyamide (basic or HT), polyester (basic or HT),polypropylene, PET, TPU, aramide (meta and para-aramide), HDPE, PTFE,PU, PVC, acrylic, carbon, viscose, acetate, modal, Tencel, cellulosicyarns, wool, silk, cotton, linen, yuta, ramie or hemp yarns.
 40. A wovenupper according to claim 26, wherein the warp yarns or the weft yarns ofthe first area consist exclusively of elastic yarns.
 41. A woven upperaccording to claim 26, wherein during weaving of the upper, the elasticyarns were extended from a rest length by at least 5%.
 42. A woven upperaccording to claim 41, wherein during weaving of the upper the elasticyarns were extended from a rest length by at least 50%.
 43. A wovenupper according to claim 26, wherein the elastic yarns of the uppercomprise one or more of elastane, polyurethane, rubber, or siliconeyarns.
 44. A woven upper according to claim 26, wherein the first areaand any second area comprise between 30 and 72 warp yarns/cm.
 45. Awoven upper according to claim 26, further comprising a plurality ofeyelets formed on a surface of the woven upper, the eyelets being formedof either the warp yarns or the weft yarns of the upper.
 46. A wovenupper according to claim 26, further comprising a plurality of eyeletsformed on a surface of the woven upper, the eyelets being formed ofribbon woven in the warp or weft of the upper.
 47. A method of weavingan upper formed of warp and weft yarns, the method comprising the stepsof: providing a first warp yarn and a first weft yarn; and weaving awoven upper having a first area woven from the first warp yarn and thefirst weft yarn; wherein the first warp yarn and/or the first weft yarncomprise at least 5% elastic yarns, wherein the first warp yarn and thefirst weft yarn comprise elastic yarns and non-elastic yarns, whereinthe elastic yarns are woven in tension.
 48. A method of weaving theupper according to claim 47, further comprising the steps of: providinga second warp yarn and a second weft yarn; and weaving the woven upperhaving a second area woven from the second warp yarn and the second weftyarn; wherein the second warp yarn and/or the second weft yarn comprisesat least 5% fewer elastic yarns than the equivalent first yarn, whereinthe elastic yarns are woven in tension.
 49. A method of weaving theupper according to claim 48, wherein the first area and the second areaare woven with different patterns so that they can be visuallydifferentiated.
 50. A method of weaving the upper according to claim 47,wherein the upper is woven using a jacquard machine.